soldering iron

Hi Sue,
I just got another Weller 100 and the store I bought it from suggested I use the temp controller with it. I was reading through some of the other questions about which iron to use and you said not to use a temp controller. Now I'm confused. Maybe they wanted me to use a temp controller because my other Weller blew up in my hand.......that was a shock.

Answer

If your iron is the W100PG (the 100watt iron with a light blue handle), it cycles on and off automatically to maintain a constant temperature. This feature eliminates the necessity of using a separate temperature controller. If you take out the tip you will see a number on the flat end. 6 gives you 600 degrees, 7...700 degrees and 8...800 degrees. The iron comes with the 700 degree tip.

Here is just one of many places that sell Weller irons and states that the W100PG does not need a temp controller: Weller Info

Working with Solder

I displayed an interest in making projects out of stained glass so my fiance bought me the entire package to get me started. I cut some glass and did the foil work but I am apprehensive about getting lead into my body. Do you think I can use lead free solder and achieve the same results as I would if I used the regular solder?

Answer

If you take the proper precautions, it would be highly unlikely that you'd get lead in your body.

Lead poisoning is mainly caused by eating it or breathing in lead dust.

Use a fume extractor when you solder, don't eat or drink (or smoke) in your work area, wash your hands frequently, and change your clothes when you are done.

With that said, if you are still worried, yes, you can use lead free solder. I have never used it, but I'm told that there is a learning curve involved to get it to flow properly. If you are taking a class, have your instructor show you how to use it. I do know that you will need a different flux than the one you use with leaded solder.

I have been working with lead for 35 years and my lead levels are within the normal limits. I do have a blood test occasionally to make sure I'm still okay. In all the years I've been working with glass and been associated with other glass artists, I've never know anyone that had lead poisoning. That's not to say it doesn't happen and I don't want you to think that I'm trying to diminish your concern.

Maybe other people reading this can tell us about their experiences either working with lead or using lead free solder. If so, please use the comments section below.

Soldering Iron

by April
(Cynthiana, KY)

Looking to invest in a good soldering iron at a reasonable price...any suggestions?

Answer

I don't know what you consider reasonable price, but my feeling is that you should buy the best quality stained glass tools that you can get. They will last a long time and save you money in the long run.

The Weller 100 PG or Hakko P-456 are the 2 best soldering irons for stained glass work. Neither one is cheap, (I believe either one will cost around $80) but if they are taken care of, they will last for years. My Weller 100PG is 10 years old and works like a charm.

Flux Problem

What kind of flux do you use?
Although I press and flatten the copper foil against the glass carefully, it seems that flux still seeps under the foil. I have a problem with my pieces falling apart! I also have a problem washing the flux off the finished piece without loosening the foil. Please be specific about what flux I should be using.
Thank you! I appreciate this free help tremendously!

Answer

Your problem isn't the flux. Flux won't lift the foil. You need to make sure your glass is clean and free of grinder dust before you apply the foil. I wipe the edges of the glass with alcohol before I foil. After you get the foil on, use a fid or a foil roller to press it down on all three surfaces. Go over it a second time to make sure it's burnished tightly against the glass. If the foil isn't burnished well, flux will get under it (or water when you wash it) and cause the foil to lift.

One other thing to check, is to make sure the adhesive on your foil is good. If the foil is old the adhesive quite often looses it's sticking power.

So, it isn't the flux causing the foil to lift...it's improper application of the foil, or inferior adhesive backing that allows the flux and/or water to get under the foil.

Any flux meant for copper foil work will work. I like Glastar GlasFlux or Classic 100 Gel Flux.

Decorative Solder and Brass Box Decorative Corners/Feet

by Cathy O.
(Saint Cloud, Florida)

Someone told me that I cannot use decorative solder or attach brass feet/corners to a box that has copper channel on the edges..that these are for use only on copper foil. I have a box that has channel on the lid and would like to embellish it but not sure if I should try decorative solder or if I can use the brass corners here. I also would like to know if you can use the ball chain on the copper channel? Can you help me? I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you

Answer

You shouldn't have any problem soldering brass feet to the copper channel. The brass corners will solder to the brass channel as well.

As for decorative soldering...that won't work. It is a technique used on copper foil. The decorative soldering becomes part of the solder bead. You need a solder base to build the decorative soldering on.

Soldering a Stained Glass Box?

by Elke Vargas
(Costa Rica)

Hello Sue. =)

I´m Elke from Costa Rica.
I want to tell you that I think your web site is very helpful and nice. I have read almost all your sections.

Some weeks ago, I started with stained glass and I like it very much. I already made a mirror project and some little sunchatchers. Now, I´d like to try a little box (8cm x 8cm x 10cm) for desktop use for my best friend.

I don´t see any problem preparing the box´s sides and bottom but I´m concern about soldering the edges. I was wondering if soldering a box is similar to making a lampshade. How can I solder the box? Is it enough soldering just the outside edges? Does it need to be solder in the inside? If yes, how can I do that?

Can you help me?

I´ll be very thankful with you.

Hi Elke,

Making a box is not much different from making a lampshade. The same principles are applied. To answer your question, yes you solder the outside seams, the inside seams and all of the edges.

To solder the inside seams you will have to move the box around so the seam you're working on is in a horizontal position.

You can use bricks covered with a towel, or anything else that's heavy and won't move, to hold the box in the correct position while you're soldering. I use Wedgies, which are a product made specifically for stained glass. You can see them Here

Use my lampshade page for general instructions on soldering the seams and edges. You can find that at Lampshade Tutorial.

Have fun making your box. If you have any more questions about it, you can contact me at Contact Me.

Difference in Solders

by Lisa
(Marietta, Ohio)

Hi,

I do not have a local glass shop and I am in need of solder. But due to limited funds and high cost of shipping I am unable to order more solder at this time. So my question is: is there a difference between solders used for plumbing and solders used for stained glass.

If not I would like to be able to go to my local big box store to purchase it.

Thanks Lisa

Answer

Hi Lisa,

There are different types of plumbers solder, so you will have to make sure it is pure 50/50 or 60/40 solder without an acid core. Some solders for plumbing have an acid core that is not compatible with stained glass work. It makes a terrible mess on the glass, and is nearly impossible to remove.

Usually it comes in sticks, rather than on a roll, which makes it difficult to control the amount you're melting off at one time. You will have to be careful about melting off too much solder at one time.

Other than watching out for the things I mentioned, plumbers solder will be fine.

New Iron Problem or Heat Control

by Jan
(Mount Vernon)

my new soldering iron is apparently way overheating when used at the same temperature as my last iron. Moreover, it is picking up pieces of both the wet sponge and the sal ammoniac block. I can't tin it - it holds the solder in a lump. Everything sticks to it and it burns the sponge and the block. I tried it at the heat setting of 10, then 9 1/2, and on down to 8 1/2 on the control unit, but I can't find a cure. Do you have recommendations? What heat setting do you normally use for beading?

Your website is fabulous!! Thanks!

Answer

Hi Jan,

If you are having that much trouble with your iron, and it is new, take it back and ask for a replacement. It sounds like there is something wrong with it.

I do not use a controller, so I can't comment on a setting. Many irons for stained glass have built in heat controllers that are governed by the tip. If you take out the tip, there could be a number on the bottom. An 8 means an 80 watt tip, a 100 means a 100 watt tip, a 60 means a 60 watt tip. Using a temp controller defeats the purpose of the tip. If you use an 80 watt tip in a 100 watt iron, it will solder at 80 watts.

I'd also advise not using a sal ammoniac block. In my many years of experience, I've seen them eat away the tip over a period of time. Just wipe the tip on a damp paper towel that has been folded up several times. It works better than a sponge and you can throw it out when you're done soldering.

What is the Best Type of Soldering Iron?

What is the best type of iron? i.e. watts, etc.

Answer

These two irons are what I would recommend. They aren't the least expensive, but they are well made and, if taken care of, they keep on working for years. When it comes to tools, I always buy the very best because they will perform well and out last the cheap tools by many years.

The Weller W100 Soldering Iron is the first iron that I would recommend. That is what I'm using now and the brand I have used for 35 years. My present iron is 10 years old and working just as well as it did when I first bought it. What I like about it is the fact that you don't /shouldn't use a temp controller with it. The iron has a built in temp controller. The way you control the temperature is by changing the tips. If you look at the flat end of the tip, you'll see a number...6 means it's a 600 degree tip, 7 is a 700 degree, 8 is an 800 degree tip. I very seldom change the tips and almost always work with the 800 degree tip.

From what I've heard and read, the Hakko 60w Super Pro Iron is supposed to be the best you can get. When it first came out, everyone was buying one and reporting how good it was as far as maintaining the heat and improving their soldering. After a few years, the stained glass community is still talking about this iron. It is recommended that you use the Hakko with a temp controller. I haven't used one, simply because my Weller is still functioning well, but I think I'll get a Hakko if and when the Weller stops working.

Help With Zinc And Solder

by Mary
(Kalispell, MT)

We often frame our pieces with zinc. Recently, the solder holding the hanging ring to the zinc has suddenly released with obvious disasterous results. We have used this method for several years and had no problems until recently. The solder at the joints is holding fine, only the spots where we added a ring to hang the pieces is releasing.

Answer

Hi Mary,

What you have explained sounds like a cold solder joint. There are several reasons this can happen, and several ways to stop it from happening.

1. Make sure the rings you use are made out of copper or brass. If they are made from a metal that is not compatible with zinc or lead (like steel or aluminum) you will get a cold solder joint. That means it looks like it's soldered together, but, in fact, it isn't. The solder isn't forming a bond with the metal of the rings.

This sounds like the obvious reason for your problem since it has just started happening. Check with your distributor to find out what metal the rings are made from.

You can make you own rings from 14 or 16 gauge copper or brass wire which is cheaper than buying ready made rings, and you'll be sure they are made from the correct metal.

2. If the rings are a compatible metal, solder will "take" faster to the copper or brass rings than it will "take" to the zinc. To solve this problem, tin the zinc in the area where the rings will be attached before you solder the rings in place. Then, as you solder the rings in place, make sure the solder flows onto the zinc. Once you see that happen, remove the soldering iron, but continue to hold the ring in place until you see the solder set up.

3. Another way to attach the rings is not to miter the corners of the zinc on the top of the panel. Make sure the top piece of zinc goes between the 2 side pieces. This will leave holes on the ends of the 2 side pieces.

Make rings with long tails. Put the tails in the holes and solder them in place, making sure the holes are filled with solder and the bottom edges of the rings are embedded in the solder. This will give you double insurance that the rings won't pull off, since the tails as well as the bottom edges of the rings are firmly soldered in place.

I hope this helps,
Sue

How to Use Lead Free Solder

by Anna Bell
(Nashville, Tn)

I know that lead free solder does not react exactly like lead solder. I understand that the soldering iron temperature must be adjusted but I'm not sure which way? Also, are there other adjustments that need to be made?

Thanks,

Answer

Hi Anna,

I know that switching from leaded solder to lead free can simply blow your mind, especially if you've been using leaded solder for a long time. It means learning something new about soldering. For many people, learning to solder was hard enough without now having to learn all over again.

Here's the good news. Lead free is no more difficult to work with than leaded solder, but it does require a little knowledge and some experimenting.

Not all lead free solder is the same. Most are 97% tin 3% copper, but even at that, they still differ. Some lead free solders also contain silver. They all melt at slightly different temperatures and have different pasty ranges. Fluxes also have different temperature ranges which they work best in. This is where the experimanting comes in.

Once you pick a solder you like, and figure out the temperature it melts best at, and find a flux which work best with it, lead free solder is no more difficult to work with than any other solder.

Here's more good news. I have read quite a bit about Johnson's IA-423 lead free solder. It contains some silver, and appears to be superior to all other lead free solders. I have not tried it, so this information comes from other people that do use it. They say it flows smoothly, and once cleaned and polished, has a mirror like finish. It also takes patina better than leaded solder. Some people said that it works well with the flux made by the same company that makes the solder. Others say that any liquid flux (for copper foil) works best.

You can read more about Johnson's IA-423 here: IA-423 Lead-Free Solder from Johnson Manufacturing Company.

If anyone reading this has used lead free solder, please tell us about your experience (good or bad).

Decorative Soldering

Hi again Sue,

I'm starting to make some snowflakes and thought it would be fun to add some decorative soldering to some. Do you have any suggestions for a good instructional DVD or book.

Answer

My favorite book for decorative soldering is "Solder Magic" by Kay Bain Weiner. It has excellent step by step instructions .

Soldering Aluminum and Galvanized Wires.

by Galit
(Arizona)

I would like to add aluminum and galvanized wires as decorations on top of the stained glass and as extensions around a piece of the glass. How do you solder the above wires? I tried to solder it to the foiled edge of the glass. It did not hold. Any suggestions?

Answer

The galvanized wire should solder beautifully. Try cleaning it it with steel wool before soldering it. If it keeps giving you trouble, tin it first.

Aluminum does not accept solder. Use tinned copper wire. It comes in a variety of thicknesses, so you should be able to find the size you want for your decorative work.

Also, make sure you have a solid union between the foil and the wire. After you have applied the solder, hold the wire in place until the solder cools (which is only a matter of seconds).

The piece you're working on sounds interesting. We'd like to see it when you're done. If you'd like, you can submit a picture on the photo gallery page.

Soldering iron

by Debbie
(Bakersfield, Ca.)

The first time I tried to use a new Weller 100 iron it blew my garage circuit. I removed all other appliances from the circuit, but the iron popped the GFI each time I tried it. The house is only 12 years old, so I don't think I have a wiring problem. Could the iron be defective?

Answer

Defective? Yes...take it back and ask for a replacement. It shouldn't blow any circuit breakers.

Beginning to solder

by Jane
(PA)

Hello Sue, I am learning so much here! I have been all over the web and find the most help here. I feel like I can jump right in and produce amazing glass just from learning from you and everyones great tips and help! However, the one thing I need to know (I feel like such an idiot asking) is -How to Solder! I have watched videos but they are not clear. I have seen people lay or touch the solder behind the iron and let it drip down, or touch the solder on top of the iron and let it drip, touch the iron to the joint and touch solder to it at the same time. Some I have seen seem to nick a piece of solder off the roll in the air before touching the iron to the joint. I do not want to blow a hole in any lead by touching the iron there too long. I guess I am asking..if someone came to you and said "I never picked up a soldering iron before, how do I get it from point A to point B (a nice joint). What is the best technique? The last video I watched had the lady picking up solder off the table surface with the tip of her iron, didn't seem like a good idea to me. Any help you can give, my tired eyes and brain would certainly appreciate! You're the best!

Hi Jane,

If you go Here, you'll see my step by step tutorial for soldering a leaded window. If you have questions after you see it, ask again and I'll go into more detail.

Sue

What are the different uses for Ultimate Solder and Quik-Set Solder

by Cathy O.
(Saint Cloud, Florida)

I am trying to use some decorative solder on my projects. I see that there are 2 types of solder - ultimate and Quik-Set solder for sale. What is the difference in these and are there preferred temperature settings for the soldering iron for each of these types of solder? I assume that the temperature would be lower for decorative soldering - correct? Enjoy your website very much. I have gotten a lot of helpful information from it!

Answer

Hi Cathy,

I know very little about the differences in solder, so I went straight to the Canfield web site to get the information. Here's what I found:

ULTIMATE WIRE SOLDER:
A premium solder designed with the artist in mind. Made by a special process, ULTIMATE combines tin, lead, and two other metals to produce the perfect solder. It goes from solid to liquid and back to solid instantly with no pasty range, creating a solid, even seam. NO WAVY HEAT LINES in your seams. Work faster than ever while running the smoothest beaded seam. It does the job with one pass of the iron. Melts at 361°F. For best results use a rheostat to control soldering iron.

ULTIMATE THIN WIRE SOLDER
Decorative soldering made easy. Thinner solder wire (1/16") gives you better control of quantity and spacing when soldering patterns. You can create the tiniest dots and the most intricate decorative seams to enhance all your stained glass projects.

QUIK-SET! WIRE SOLDER
Sets up quickly and beads instantly. This solder was developed for the stained glass production solderer as well as the artisan. QUIK-SET! makes a perfect bead with one pass of the iron, and the bead sets up instantly with a silvery shine. Melting temperature: 361° - 392°F.

I hope this helps you.

Thank you for the nice comment about my web site,
Sue

Soldering Iron Temperature

Hi Sue,

What is the best way to know what the temperature of my soldering iron is? I’m starting to use different solders and techniques and need to keep a closer watch on my temps in some cases. I’m currently using a Weller 100W with a temperature rheostat. Thanks!

David.

Answer

The Weller 100 watt iron should not be used with a temp controller. The temperature is controlled by the tip. Take the tip out and look at the flat end of it. You will see a number. 8 means it's an 80 watt tip, 7 is 70 watts and 6 is 60 watts. The tips are available at most stained glass retailers.

Old Soldering

by Wendy
(Bath, Pa.)

Over a year ago I started a stained glass lamp. For numerous reasons I had to stop working on it. Now that I am able to work on it again, I found that some of the tack soldering I did earlier has turned white and spots om the foil turned green. The solder is also very hard to melt. Is there anything I could use or to clean the soldering to make it easier to work now after it has been sitting for so long?

Answer
Hi Wendy,

Go over the foil and solder with Bronze Wool (available from some stained glass suppliers and from some Ace Hardware stores), or use very fine steel wool. Bronze Wool is the better product, but it isn't always available.

Whichever product you use will remove the green from the foil and the white from the solder.

The green and white is called oxidation and it's caused by the air getting to the unprotected foil and solder. Leaving flux on for so long contributed to the problem.

Once you have removed the green and white, wipe over the panel with flux remover, then a damp cloth. Wipe it dry before you start soldering again.

If you need to leave it for a day or more, use flux remover to clean the flux off the lamp, then put the lamp in a zip lock plastic bag (they make some very big ones for clothing storage). Squeeze as much air as possible out of the bag as you zip it closed. You can leave the lamp like that for several months.

If you can't find a zip lock bag large enough to accomodate the lamp, wrap the lamp in plastic wrap, making sure there aren't any openinngs for air to get in.