soldering iron

Hi Sue,
I just got another Weller 100 and the store I bought it from suggested I use the temp controller with it. I was reading through some of the other questions about which iron to use and you said not to use a temp controller. Now I'm confused. Maybe they wanted me to use a temp controller because my other Weller blew up in my hand.......that was a shock.

Answer

If your iron is the W100PG (the 100watt iron with a light blue handle), it cycles on and off automatically to maintain a constant temperature. This feature eliminates the necessity of using a separate temperature controller. If you take out the tip you will see a number on the flat end. 6 gives you 600 degrees, 7...700 degrees and 8...800 degrees. The iron comes with the 700 degree tip.

Here is just one of many places that sell Weller irons and states that the W100PG does not need a temp controller: Weller Info

Working with Solder

I displayed an interest in making projects out of stained glass so my fiance bought me the entire package to get me started. I cut some glass and did the foil work but I am apprehensive about getting lead into my body. Do you think I can use lead free solder and achieve the same results as I would if I used the regular solder?

Answer

If you take the proper precautions, it would be highly unlikely that you'd get lead in your body.

Lead poisoning is mainly caused by eating it or breathing in lead dust.

Use a fume extractor when you solder, don't eat or drink (or smoke) in your work area, wash your hands frequently, and change your clothes when you are done.

With that said, if you are still worried, yes, you can use lead free solder. I have never used it, but I'm told that there is a learning curve involved to get it to flow properly. If you are taking a class, have your instructor show you how to use it. I do know that you will need a different flux than the one you use with leaded solder.

I have been working with lead for 35 years and my lead levels are within the normal limits. I do have a blood test occasionally to make sure I'm still okay. In all the years I've been working with glass and been associated with other glass artists, I've never know anyone that had lead poisoning. That's not to say it doesn't happen and I don't want you to think that I'm trying to diminish your concern.

Maybe other people reading this can tell us about their experiences either working with lead or using lead free solder. If so, please use the comments section below.

Soldering Iron

by April
(Cynthiana, KY)

Looking to invest in a good soldering iron at a reasonable price...any suggestions?

Answer

I don't know what you consider reasonable price, but my feeling is that you should buy the best quality stained glass tools that you can get. They will last a long time and save you money in the long run.

The Weller 100 PG or Hakko P-456 are the 2 best soldering irons for stained glass work. Neither one is cheap, (I believe either one will cost around $80) but if they are taken care of, they will last for years. My Weller 100PG is 10 years old and works like a charm.

Flux Problem

What kind of flux do you use?
Although I press and flatten the copper foil against the glass carefully, it seems that flux still seeps under the foil. I have a problem with my pieces falling apart! I also have a problem washing the flux off the finished piece without loosening the foil. Please be specific about what flux I should be using.
Thank you! I appreciate this free help tremendously!

Answer

Your problem isn't the flux. Flux won't lift the foil. You need to make sure your glass is clean and free of grinder dust before you apply the foil. I wipe the edges of the glass with alcohol before I foil. After you get the foil on, use a fid or a foil roller to press it down on all three surfaces. Go over it a second time to make sure it's burnished tightly against the glass. If the foil isn't burnished well, flux will get under it (or water when you wash it) and cause the foil to lift.

One other thing to check, is to make sure the adhesive on your foil is good. If the foil is old the adhesive quite often looses it's sticking power.

So, it isn't the flux causing the foil to lift...it's improper application of the foil, or inferior adhesive backing that allows the flux and/or water to get under the foil.

Any flux meant for copper foil work will work. I like Glastar GlasFlux or Classic 100 Gel Flux.

Decorative Solder and Brass Box Decorative Corners/Feet

by Cathy O.
(Saint Cloud, Florida)

Someone told me that I cannot use decorative solder or attach brass feet/corners to a box that has copper channel on the edges..that these are for use only on copper foil. I have a box that has channel on the lid and would like to embellish it but not sure if I should try decorative solder or if I can use the brass corners here. I also would like to know if you can use the ball chain on the copper channel? Can you help me? I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you

Answer

You shouldn't have any problem soldering brass feet to the copper channel. The brass corners will solder to the brass channel as well.

As for decorative soldering...that won't work. It is a technique used on copper foil. The decorative soldering becomes part of the solder bead. You need a solder base to build the decorative soldering on.

Soldering a Stained Glass Box?

by Elke Vargas
(Costa Rica)

Hello Sue. =)

I´m Elke from Costa Rica.
I want to tell you that I think your web site is very helpful and nice. I have read almost all your sections.

Some weeks ago, I started with stained glass and I like it very much. I already made a mirror project and some little sunchatchers. Now, I´d like to try a little box (8cm x 8cm x 10cm) for desktop use for my best friend.

I don´t see any problem preparing the box´s sides and bottom but I´m concern about soldering the edges. I was wondering if soldering a box is similar to making a lampshade. How can I solder the box? Is it enough soldering just the outside edges? Does it need to be solder in the inside? If yes, how can I do that?

Can you help me?

I´ll be very thankful with you.

Hi Elke,

Making a box is not much different from making a lampshade. The same principles are applied. To answer your question, yes you solder the outside seams, the inside seams and all of the edges.

To solder the inside seams you will have to move the box around so the seam you're working on is in a horizontal position.

You can use bricks covered with a towel, or anything else that's heavy and won't move, to hold the box in the correct position while you're soldering. I use Wedgies, which are a product made specifically for stained glass. You can see them Here

Use my lampshade page for general instructions on soldering the seams and edges. You can find that at Lampshade Tutorial.

Have fun making your box. If you have any more questions about it, you can contact me at Contact Me.

Difference in Solders

by Lisa
(Marietta, Ohio)

Hi,

I do not have a local glass shop and I am in need of solder. But due to limited funds and high cost of shipping I am unable to order more solder at this time. So my question is: is there a difference between solders used for plumbing and solders used for stained glass.

If not I would like to be able to go to my local big box store to purchase it.

Thanks Lisa

Answer

Hi Lisa,

There are different types of plumbers solder, so you will have to make sure it is pure 50/50 or 60/40 solder without an acid core. Some solders for plumbing have an acid core that is not compatible with stained glass work. It makes a terrible mess on the glass, and is nearly impossible to remove.

Usually it comes in sticks, rather than on a roll, which makes it difficult to control the amount you're melting off at one time. You will have to be careful about melting off too much solder at one time.

Other than watching out for the things I mentioned, plumbers solder will be fine.

New Iron Problem or Heat Control

by Jan
(Mount Vernon)

my new soldering iron is apparently way overheating when used at the same temperature as my last iron. Moreover, it is picking up pieces of both the wet sponge and the sal ammoniac block. I can't tin it - it holds the solder in a lump. Everything sticks to it and it burns the sponge and the block. I tried it at the heat setting of 10, then 9 1/2, and on down to 8 1/2 on the control unit, but I can't find a cure. Do you have recommendations? What heat setting do you normally use for beading?

Your website is fabulous!! Thanks!

Answer

Hi Jan,

If you are having that much trouble with your iron, and it is new, take it back and ask for a replacement. It sounds like there is something wrong with it.

I do not use a controller, so I can't comment on a setting. Many irons for stained glass have built in heat controllers that are governed by the tip. If you take out the tip, there could be a number on the bottom. An 8 means an 80 watt tip, a 100 means a 100 watt tip, a 60 means a 60 watt tip. Using a temp controller defeats the purpose of the tip. If you use an 80 watt tip in a 100 watt iron, it will solder at 80 watts.

I'd also advise not using a sal ammoniac block. In my many years of experience, I've seen them eat away the tip over a period of time. Just wipe the tip on a damp paper towel that has been folded up several times. It works better than a sponge and you can throw it out when you're done soldering.

What is the Best Type of Soldering Iron?

What is the best type of iron? i.e. watts, etc.

Answer

These two irons are what I would recommend. They aren't the least expensive, but they are well made and, if taken care of, they keep on working for years. When it comes to tools, I always buy the very best because they will perform well and out last the cheap tools by many years.

The Weller W100 Soldering Iron is the first iron that I would recommend. That is what I'm using now and the brand I have used for 35 years. My present iron is 10 years old and working just as well as it did when I first bought it. What I like about it is the fact that you don't /shouldn't use a temp controller with it. The iron has a built in temp controller. The way you control the temperature is by changing the tips. If you look at the flat end of the tip, you'll see a number...6 means it's a 600 degree tip, 7 is a 700 degree, 8 is an 800 degree tip. I very seldom change the tips and almost always work with the 800 degree tip.

From what I've heard and read, the Hakko 60w Super Pro Iron is supposed to be the best you can get. When it first came out, everyone was buying one and reporting how good it was as far as maintaining the heat and improving their soldering. After a few years, the stained glass community is still talking about this iron. It is recommended that you use the Hakko with a temp controller. I haven't used one, simply because my Weller is still functioning well, but I think I'll get a Hakko if and when the Weller stops working.

Help With Zinc And Solder

by Mary
(Kalispell, MT)

We often frame our pieces with zinc. Recently, the solder holding the hanging ring to the zinc has suddenly released with obvious disasterous results. We have used this method for several years and had no problems until recently. The solder at the joints is holding fine, only the spots where we added a ring to hang the pieces is releasing.

Answer

Hi Mary,

What you have explained sounds like a cold solder joint. There are several reasons this can happen, and several ways to stop it from happening.

1. Make sure the rings you use are made out of copper or brass. If they are made from a metal that is not compatible with zinc or lead (like steel or aluminum) you will get a cold solder joint. That means it looks like it's soldered together, but, in fact, it isn't. The solder isn't forming a bond with the metal of the rings.

This sounds like the obvious reason for your problem since it has just started happening. Check with your distributor to find out what metal the rings are made from.

You can make you own rings from 14 or 16 gauge copper or brass wire which is cheaper than buying ready made rings, and you'll be sure they are made from the correct metal.

2. If the rings are a compatible metal, solder will "take" faster to the copper or brass rings than it will "take" to the zinc. To solve this problem, tin the zinc in the area where the rings will be attached before you solder the rings in place. Then, as you solder the rings in place, make sure the solder flows onto the zinc. Once you see that happen, remove the soldering iron, but continue to hold the ring in place until you see the solder set up.

3. Another way to attach the rings is not to miter the corners of the zinc on the top of the panel. Make sure the top piece of zinc goes between the 2 side pieces. This will leave holes on the ends of the 2 side pieces.

Make rings with long tails. Put the tails in the holes and solder them in place, making sure the holes are filled with solder and the bottom edges of the rings are embedded in the solder. This will give you double insurance that the rings won't pull off, since the tails as well as the bottom edges of the rings are firmly soldered in place.

I hope this helps,
Sue

How to Use Lead Free Solder

by Anna Bell
(Nashville, Tn)

I know that lead free solder does not react exactly like lead solder. I understand that the soldering iron temperature must be adjusted but I'm not sure which way? Also, are there other adjustments that need to be made?

Thanks,

Answer

Hi Anna,

I know that switching from leaded solder to lead free can simply blow your mind, especially if you've been using leaded solder for a long time. It means learning something new about soldering. For many people, learning to solder was hard enough without now having to learn all over again.

Here's the good news. Lead free is no more difficult to work with than leaded solder, but it does require a little knowledge and some experimenting.

Not all lead free solder is the same. Most are 97% tin 3% copper, but even at that, they still differ. Some lead free solders also contain silver. They all melt at slightly different temperatures and have different pasty ranges. Fluxes also have different temperature ranges which they work best in. This is where the experimanting comes in.

Once you pick a solder you like, and figure out the temperature it melts best at, and find a flux which work best with it, lead free solder is no more difficult to work with than any other solder.

Here's more good news. I have read quite a bit about Johnson's IA-423 lead free solder. It contains some silver, and appears to be superior to all other lead free solders. I have not tried it, so this information comes from other people that do use it. They say it flows smoothly, and once cleaned and polished, has a mirror like finish. It also takes patina better than leaded solder. Some people said that it works well with the flux made by the same company that makes the solder. Others say that any liquid flux (for copper foil) works best.

You can read more about Johnson's IA-423 here: IA-423 Lead-Free Solder from Johnson Manufacturing Company.

If anyone reading this has used lead free solder, please tell us about your experience (good or bad).

Decorative Soldering

Hi again Sue,

I'm starting to make some snowflakes and thought it would be fun to add some decorative soldering to some. Do you have any suggestions for a good instructional DVD or book.

Answer

My favorite book for decorative soldering is "Solder Magic" by Kay Bain Weiner. It has excellent step by step instructions .

Soldering Aluminum and Galvanized Wires.

by Galit
(Arizona)

I would like to add aluminum and galvanized wires as decorations on top of the stained glass and as extensions around a piece of the glass. How do you solder the above wires? I tried to solder it to the foiled edge of the glass. It did not hold. Any suggestions?

Answer

The galvanized wire should solder beautifully. Try cleaning it it with steel wool before soldering it. If it keeps giving you trouble, tin it first.

Aluminum does not accept solder. Use tinned copper wire. It comes in a variety of thicknesses, so you should be able to find the size you want for your decorative work.

Also, make sure you have a solid union between the foil and the wire. After you have applied the solder, hold the wire in place until the solder cools (which is only a matter of seconds).

The piece you're working on sounds interesting. We'd like to see it when you're done. If you'd like, you can submit a picture on the photo gallery page.

Soldering iron

by Debbie
(Bakersfield, Ca.)

The first time I tried to use a new Weller 100 iron it blew my garage circuit. I removed all other appliances from the circuit, but the iron popped the GFI each time I tried it. The house is only 12 years old, so I don't think I have a wiring problem. Could the iron be defective?

Answer

Defective? Yes...take it back and ask for a replacement. It shouldn't blow any circuit breakers.

Beginning to solder

by Jane
(PA)

Hello Sue, I am learning so much here! I have been all over the web and find the most help here. I feel like I can jump right in and produce amazing glass just from learning from you and everyones great tips and help! However, the one thing I need to know (I feel like such an idiot asking) is -How to Solder! I have watched videos but they are not clear. I have seen people lay or touch the solder behind the iron and let it drip down, or touch the solder on top of the iron and let it drip, touch the iron to the joint and touch solder to it at the same time. Some I have seen seem to nick a piece of solder off the roll in the air before touching the iron to the joint. I do not want to blow a hole in any lead by touching the iron there too long. I guess I am asking..if someone came to you and said "I never picked up a soldering iron before, how do I get it from point A to point B (a nice joint). What is the best technique? The last video I watched had the lady picking up solder off the table surface with the tip of her iron, didn't seem like a good idea to me. Any help you can give, my tired eyes and brain would certainly appreciate! You're the best!

Hi Jane,

If you go Here, you'll see my step by step tutorial for soldering a leaded window. If you have questions after you see it, ask again and I'll go into more detail.

Sue

What are the different uses for Ultimate Solder and Quik-Set Solder

by Cathy O.
(Saint Cloud, Florida)

I am trying to use some decorative solder on my projects. I see that there are 2 types of solder - ultimate and Quik-Set solder for sale. What is the difference in these and are there preferred temperature settings for the soldering iron for each of these types of solder? I assume that the temperature would be lower for decorative soldering - correct? Enjoy your website very much. I have gotten a lot of helpful information from it!

Answer

Hi Cathy,

I know very little about the differences in solder, so I went straight to the Canfield web site to get the information. Here's what I found:

ULTIMATE WIRE SOLDER:
A premium solder designed with the artist in mind. Made by a special process, ULTIMATE combines tin, lead, and two other metals to produce the perfect solder. It goes from solid to liquid and back to solid instantly with no pasty range, creating a solid, even seam. NO WAVY HEAT LINES in your seams. Work faster than ever while running the smoothest beaded seam. It does the job with one pass of the iron. Melts at 361°F. For best results use a rheostat to control soldering iron.

ULTIMATE THIN WIRE SOLDER
Decorative soldering made easy. Thinner solder wire (1/16") gives you better control of quantity and spacing when soldering patterns. You can create the tiniest dots and the most intricate decorative seams to enhance all your stained glass projects.

QUIK-SET! WIRE SOLDER
Sets up quickly and beads instantly. This solder was developed for the stained glass production solderer as well as the artisan. QUIK-SET! makes a perfect bead with one pass of the iron, and the bead sets up instantly with a silvery shine. Melting temperature: 361° - 392°F.

I hope this helps you.

Thank you for the nice comment about my web site,
Sue

Soldering Iron Temperature

Hi Sue,

What is the best way to know what the temperature of my soldering iron is? I’m starting to use different solders and techniques and need to keep a closer watch on my temps in some cases. I’m currently using a Weller 100W with a temperature rheostat. Thanks!

David.

Answer

The Weller 100 watt iron should not be used with a temp controller. The temperature is controlled by the tip. Take the tip out and look at the flat end of it. You will see a number. 8 means it's an 80 watt tip, 7 is 70 watts and 6 is 60 watts. The tips are available at most stained glass retailers.

Old Soldering

by Wendy
(Bath, Pa.)

Over a year ago I started a stained glass lamp. For numerous reasons I had to stop working on it. Now that I am able to work on it again, I found that some of the tack soldering I did earlier has turned white and spots om the foil turned green. The solder is also very hard to melt. Is there anything I could use or to clean the soldering to make it easier to work now after it has been sitting for so long?

Answer
Hi Wendy,

Go over the foil and solder with Bronze Wool (available from some stained glass suppliers and from some Ace Hardware stores), or use very fine steel wool. Bronze Wool is the better product, but it isn't always available.

Whichever product you use will remove the green from the foil and the white from the solder.

The green and white is called oxidation and it's caused by the air getting to the unprotected foil and solder. Leaving flux on for so long contributed to the problem.

Once you have removed the green and white, wipe over the panel with flux remover, then a damp cloth. Wipe it dry before you start soldering again.

If you need to leave it for a day or more, use flux remover to clean the flux off the lamp, then put the lamp in a zip lock plastic bag (they make some very big ones for clothing storage). Squeeze as much air as possible out of the bag as you zip it closed. You can leave the lamp like that for several months.

If you can't find a zip lock bag large enough to accomodate the lamp, wrap the lamp in plastic wrap, making sure there aren't any openinngs for air to get in.

SOLDERING

by Barb
(Michigan, usa)

I'm having problems with soldering. It's not smooth and some areas it looks burnt.


Answer

You'll find a soldering tutorial Here

sharp edges on soldering.

by lizzy
(wales)

Hi there,
I love copper foil work, but tend to get tiny sharp edges on the solder. Don't think its the soldering iron, think its me!
Could you please tell me what I'm doing wrong?

Many thanks,

Lizzy

Answer

Your iron isn't hot enough. You will get sharp bits with a too cool iron. Turn off your temp controller and just use the iron as is. You'll be surprised at how much better your soldering will be.

flux choice

by Randy Cavender
(Claremont,NC)

Seems like my foil has oxidized rather quickly and the solder is not flowing well with the particular flux I am using. Any suggestions on a flux that is best with oxidized foil. (Tried a light rub with steel wool, but it is to easy to damage foil). Thx

Answer

Hi Randy,

Use bronze wool to clean off the oxidation. It won't tear up the foil like steel wool does. You can get it from most Ace Hardware stores, or you can order it here: Bronze Wool

By the way, you didn't say which flux you're using. It will be easier to recommend a flux once I know what you've already tried.

Timing of soldering copper l

by Penelope Vahey
(Lopez, PA)

I am looking for some tip or timing technique for doing the solder line on the copper foil. If the solder isn't beading it is only covering one side of my foil. This is still the first project of mine and I want as much practice before I go to an actual design. Help with something you used when you first start all those years ago. Thank you.

Answer

It sounds like your iron is too cool. Turn it up to the bext mark on the dial, or if you're using a Weller iron, use a #8 tip in it (Weller irons don't need a temp controller. Their temp is controlled by the different tips available).

Make sure you use plenty of flux.

Take your time. Soldering isn't a race. Keep moving the iron, but take it slowly.

Add more solder if there isn't enough the first go around. Just make sure to add more flux first.

Read this tutorial: Soldering Copper Foil

How to change an element in soldering iron.

by Freida
(Ky)

I bought a Inland Insta Heat Soldering Iron and i dropped the iron and it broke the elemet in it. I have bought a new element but i can't figure out how to put it in. Do anyone know how to change it? Thank You!

Answer

Sorry, I've never changed one. Perhaps someone reading this can give you an answer. if so, it will be in the comments section below.

Is Expensive Solder Really Better?

by Bill
(Cincinnati, Ohio)

I have been told that Canfield solder is about the best there is, but it is also pretty expensive. I can buy Canfield solder for $13.95 a pound from my local glass shop or buy Victory solder over the internet for $7.60 a pound. My internet supplier says that the only difference is the brand name. My local glass shop says that Canfield is a much better quality. Both labels say that they are vrgin metals and both are 60/40. Who's right? I can not tell any difference.

Thanks,
Bill

Answer

Hi Bill,

I don't agree with your local stained glass shop. There are several brands of solder that are top of the line. Fry, Hirsh and Canfield are all brands that I use and I find them comparable in quality. I have never used Victory, so I can't comment on it.

However, I had a look at several web sites that sell Victory solder, including its manufacturers' web site. It appears to be a pure metal solder. There are quite a few places that sell it, but I don't know if that's because the company salesmen are giving the retailers a "good deal" to get it into their stores, or if it's because it is a quality product. Perhaps someone reading this has used Victory solder and can give us their opinion, using the comments section below.

And to further answer your question, yes there are inferior solders. They leave the bead looking dirty and filmy with specks of "stuff" visible in the solder bead. I can't give you any brand names, as I have never used any of them myself, but I have seen work done by students that bought cheap solder and regretted it after using it. So...you do have to be careful about what brand of solder you buy. If it's dirt cheap, I'd be hesitant to buy it.

tack soldering

When you have all pieces cut and foiled, you say to tack solder while they are laying flat on your table. If there is tack soldering when you try to pick up and form into the shape after taping the area that is tack soldered will pull the foil away. Also what surface are you soldering on front and back in the same paragraph? Am I misunderstanding about the initial tack soldering and soldering front and back in 2 nd paragraph under cutting and assembling panels Thank, your site is wonderful. Beth Mac Phee

Answer

I believe you are referring to Step 7 which says: When each panel is all foiled and tack soldered, finish soldering it front and back, but do not get any solder on the edges. If you do, melt it off and make sure the edges are absolutely smooth. As you finish each panel, wash it in warm, soapy water, and dry thoroughly. That means each individual panel.

The surface I'm soldering on is a piece of ceiling tile with the pattern on top of it.

There are no instructions for tack soldering all of the panels together before you tape them. You are right, doing that would pull the foil loose. However, once the shade is pulled up you will go around and tack solder at the bottom and top to help it keep it's shape before you do the final soldering.

Flux - Liquid, Gel or Paste

by David
(TX)

What, if any, are the advantages of gel or paste flux over liquid flux? The paste flux I've found seems to be geared toward electronic applications.

Would appreciate your thoughts.

David.

Are you working with lead came or copper foil? There are different fluxes for each one.

soldering

I took a beginner stained glass class from a local store which has since closed. I haven't worked on stained glass for about three years due to my dad's illness and death. I'm beginning again and can't remember the holding position of the iron/solder. I was originally taught to keep a continuous line going when possible but can't remember whether to always run away or toward me. I know to go toward the outside. I don't do the lift method except for tidying up at the end.

Answer

Pull the iron towards you.

Here's the Soldering Tutorial on my web site.

Burned tip

by David A
(N. Carolina)

I accidentally left my soldering iron on over night. Is there any way to recover or re-tin the tip or do I just chuck away and buy anew?

Thanks, Sue -- great site.

David

Answer

I've done that more than once! When it happens I heat the tip and dip it in Nokorode flux, then immediately wipe it with a paper towel. Be sure to wear a heavy glove will doing this. I use an "Ove Glove" when doing something that could burn me.

Flux keeps getting black bits in

by Sue
(South Wales, United Kingdom)

Hi Sue

I am quite new to Stained Glass and am finding that the Solder 60/40 stick soler (UK) I am using keeps getting black bits in, I have changed supplier, I have changed tip on Soldering Iron, I have changed Flux PLEASE help I am now at the end of my tether, it is not only giving my soldering a lumpy finish but also I am wasting so much flux because it keeps contaminating it. I have spoken to 2 different suppliers about this problem and neither of them have any idea, the Soldering Iron (which nobody has heard of)I am using is the one I was recommended by my first Stained Glass teacher, it is a 200w, it does not have a temperature control on it, she said that we would find them so frustrating as they cool down at the wrong times??

Kind Regards

Another Sue from Sunny Wales, UK

Answer
A 200 watt iron is way too hot. No wonder you have black bits in your solder. If I were you, I'd invest in an 80 watt or 100 watt iron. You could try a temp controller, but I don't know if that would even get you 200 watt iron down to the correct temperature.

Your 200 watt iron must be big and heavy. I really think you'd be better off buying a new iron. If they are available in the UK, the Weller 100 watt iron for stained glass work (it has a light blue handle) would be the best one to get. You don't need a temp controller with it, as the tip controls the heat. You can buy different tips for different wattages. It comes with an 80 watt tip which will be good for most work that you'll be doing.

Keep your 200 watt iron...if you ever make lampshades, it will be just right for tinning vase caps!

Undoing a Finished Stained Glass Piece

by Teresa Bost
(Escondido, Ca. USA)

Hello. I need help with a question that I have not been able to get an answer for. About 5 years ago I started a stained glass project with 17 pieces to it. It was meant to be a suncatcher. I did a sloppy job and put it aside. I recently found it and would like to take it apart and redo the whole thing. I had put too much solder between the pieces and the outside ring still has copper foil on it. Do you think it can be saved or could you give me advice on how to take it apart again? I am still a beginner. I learned and have done about 5 pieces of work in the last 14 years. A friend taught me. I'd like to try and get started again and thought I would finish this one project. The piece is a sun. Thanks for any help you may be able to give me.

Answer
There are directions on my web site for repairing a copper foil piece. You can use the technique to take your entire suncatcher apart. You can find the tutorial at Repairing Copper Foil.

After you have it apart, pull off the foil (which isn't always as easy as it sounds!). You might have to scrape it off with a retractable knife blade.

After the foil is off, clean the edges of each piece of glass with something like Goo Gone (an adhesive remover). That will remove any remaining adhesive left behind from the foil. Then wash the glass with warm soapy water. Now you're ready to put on new foil and solder it back together.

soldering iron tip

by Brenda
(Bonner Springs, KS)

How do you know when you need a new soldering iron or iron tip?

Answer

There are so many ways to tell if you need anew tip. Here are some of the most comon ways.

The tip might develop a hole, it might have gray pieces flaking off and falling into the solder, it may look gray even after wiping it off, solder won't stick to it, or you your soldering looks terrible when it always looked good before.

In essence, if you think you need a new tip, you most likely do.

Iron temperatures

by Jet
(Brisbane, Australia)

Hi Sue,
I'm just wondering about the differences between 60 or 70 watt soldering irons, compared to 80 or 100 watt. I have never used anything less than 80 watt for both lead and copperfoil work, and have found someone who is teaching that only 60 and 70 watt irons should be used (for lead). Aren't 60 and 70 watt irons too cold for soldering lead (or copperfoil?) ??

thanks, Jet


Answer

The 60 or 70 watt iron would work for lead, but would be too cool for copper foil especially if you solder quickly. You'd be better off using a Weller 100PG soldering iron which is temperature controlled by the size tip you use in it. Use the 600 watt tip for lead and the 800 watt tip for copper foil.

changing tip on soldering iron inland deluxe 100

by lori
(pa.)

i just bought an inland deluxe 100 soldering iron cannot seem to get the head loose to change it any suggestions do not want to break old tip thats what happened to my wellar now the tips stuck inside

Answer

This isn't so much an answer as a question. Have you used the soldering iron or is it brand new. If it's new, return it. If it has been used, spray some WD-40 around the tip where it goes into the iron and let it sit for a day. You might have to do this several times, but it should loosen the tip eventually. Once the tip is loose and cleaned up, remove the tip after every soldering session and clean it with fine steel wool (not the head of the tip that you solder with, just the straight part of the tip). If you keep it clean, it won't stick.

Also, please remember to turn the iron off after every use. Forgetting to turn it off will cause it to corrode inside the barrel plus not turning it is a fire hazard. If you take the tip out after every use, turning it off shouldn't be a problem!!

Soldering the back side of a piece

When I go to solder the back of my stained glass panels the solder does not go on smoothly like on the front side of the panel. Any ideas?

Answer

Perhaps it's being contaminated by whatever the panel is laying on when you solder the front.

I'd suggest cleaning the back before you start to solder. A few squirts of window cleaner with ammonia should remove the contamination or anything else that's causing the problem. Make sure it's wiped dry before you start to add flux and solder.

Soldering While Pregnant

by Tracey

I am a beginner. I took a class a while back and decided that I would make some small stained glass christmas ornaments this year to get back into stained glass. I am also 3 months pregnant and didn't even think about soldering as being something I should avoid while pregnant. Do you think, in your opinion, that I should not solder while pregnant? Or do you think that I would be ok (it would not harm my baby) if I used a fume mask? I know you aren't a Doctor...but I just thought I would ask your opinion.
Thanks, Tracey

Awesome site, by the way!

Answer

Hi Tracey,

This is such an important topic and I'm glad you brought it up.

Do not solder while you're pregnant.

Don't do anything that creates fumes or involves using chemicals. Don't take a chance doing something that could harm that precious baby. This is common knowledge that all stained glass instructors should pass on to their students.

Please talk to your doctor before doing anything you think could be harmful to your unborn baby. If you're pregnant and have been soldering, tell your doctor.

Here's what you can do while your pregnant. Spend your time finding patterns for future projects. You can cut and foil glass (wearing a mask when grinding),then put the foiled pieces in a zip lock bag to prevent them from oxidizing. They'll be ready to solder after you've had the baby.

Have a safe and worry free pregnancy.

Solder

I'm looking for a solder that does not contain lead to use in a charm project. What should I use?

Answer

You can use lead free solder or silver solder.

Fume Trap Recommendation

by Syrus
(Eagle, Wisconsin)

Hi Sue,

I have been considering buying a fume trap to catch the fumes given off while soldering. I went to a few websites and am not sure what to buy. They are fairly pricey, so if I'm going to buy one, I want it to work well. One of the complaints I have seen is that some of them have to be practically on top of where you are working which can be impossible when doing a large panel. Do you have any recommendations?

Answer

This Article will tell you what you need to know about fumes, and how to build your own fume extractor.

cracks

by d french
(trinidad,ca usa)

My stained glass pieces are hanging in my windows that get direct sun could that be the cause of small cracks suddenly appearing?

Answer

Direct sun won't cause a stable stained glass piece to crack. Most likely there were minute cracks in the glass that were there before you constructed the piece. Quite often they run when you are soldering, but being heated by the sun can cause them to run also. The most frequent way for those minute cracks to form is from tapping the glass to run the score.