Applying Black Patina to Lead Came

I'm fairly new at doing stained glass projects and have a problem getting the patina to cover evenly on lead came. I use the lead came for framing my pieces. Your site is fabulous and so helpful and informative but I couldn't find anything on the applying of patina on lead. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I used a brush to apply the flux and the solder did flow too much so how do I remove this excess solder? (I read your article after the fact!)

Thanks so much for you help.

Mary Ann


Answer

Hi Mary Ann,

Welcome to the world of stained glass! I hope you grow to love it as much as I do.

We all run into problems when starting a out in stained glass. What seems like a huge problem, can usually become a small one once you have the right information.

Your first problem with black patina is a small problem. Make sure your lead is clean before applying the patina. The slightest flux residue will cause blotching problems. If you don't think your lead is clean, use a fine 0000 gauge steel wool to clean the lead, then be sure to clean off any steel wool particles left behind.

Sometimes lead comes with a less than clean surface, so make sure it's clean before you use it. Finally, be sure you are using black patina for lead.

To be perfectly honest, I have never had good luck using a chemical black patina on lead. Perhaps someone reading this has had good experience with chemical black patina on lead and is willing to share their techniques with us. If so, just use the comments box at the bottom of this post.

When I make a leaded window (my choice of techniques to make windows) I darken the lead by brushing it with a natural bristle brush. Horse hair and tampico are two types of natural bristle brushes. I get mine at our local tack shop (horse supplies). Vigorously scrub the lead with the brush. The scrubbing will darken the lead and solder joints. This technique should work on your lead border.

Your problem with too much solder is in the more difficult catagory. Getting solder off is a lot more difficult then putting it on. There is a product available called Wicking Braid that you can get at most hardware stores. You lay the wicking braid on the bead of solder, then briefly touch the tip of your soldering iron to the wicking braid, without applying pressure. The heated braid will wick up and remove the excess solder. It isn't quite as easy as it sounds, but it does work fairly well. You have to be careful so you don't melt the lead in the wicking process. Once you are rid of the excess solder, you'll have to go back and touch up the solder joints.

What I would do is remove the lead by cutting through each joint on both sides of the panel. Then start over with new lead. It would be quicker and easier. Just be careful so you don't tear off bits of foil in the removal process. Again, if anyone reading this has a better way of removing excess solder, please tell us about it in the comments box below.

I just though of something else you could try first. Flux the joints where there is too much solder. Set the panel on the edge opposite to the spot where you want to start removing the solder. Tilt the panel forward and touch the solder with your iron until the solder starts to run, but not long enough to melt the lead. The solder should drop off onto the work bench. Be sure to wear protective clothing and gloves while doing this, as the solder doesn't always fall where you think it should. It's kind of an "off the wall" technique, but I have used it when it appeared to be the quickest way to get rid of solder. It's worth a try before you attempt one of my other suggestions.