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Pantry Door

by Sharon Holzhausen
(Michigan United States)

Our store is doing a pantry door for a kitchen in Michigan. We are dividing the leaded area in half. We thought about using 7/32 lead with brass channel for reinforcement. The customer also approved a glass pane on one side of door. We will have a local glass company provide the glass pane since we think that that should be tempored. We would like your imput since this is our first large came project.

Answer
I need more information before I can give any input.

How big is the panel?

Is it all lead and if not, how much of it is lead.

Do you plan on using any copper restrip, besides the lead with brass channel, for reinforcement?

Will it be in a door that will be constantly opened and closed?

Have you checked your local building code to find out what has to be done with a stained glass door in a commercial property (as far as installation)?

What type of design is it?

Are there any hinge joints?

I know there are a lot of questions, but every scenerio takes a different approach.

You can answer by submitting another question, or you can give me your answers in the comments section below.

Comments for
Pantry Door

Click here to add your own comments

Jun 06, 2009
pantry door info NEW
by: Anonymous

This pantry door is a walk through in a home kitchen. It is a scalloped top and bottom design with strraight up and down lines from the scallops to a scallop area at the center of the door. We didn't realize we could use copper reinforcing strips for lead came support. My instints tell me that we should be using rebar since this panel is about 63 inches long by 24 inches wide. the customer didn't want the rebar or another piece of glass in front of it but we were able to talk her into a tempered piece of glass in front of the panel since building codes required tempered glass in walk through doors. We also considered using zinc for the straight line pieces but the look was so different that we plan on keeping it all lead.

Reply

Yes...you can use copper restrip with lead. You put it in the channel before you insert the glass. Just make sure you run it from one edge to the other without any breaks. You can run it both vertical and horizontal for added strength. When you have one piece crossing over another (horizontal over vertical, etc), you will need to cut one piece to get it over the other, then resume on the other side. When you solder, the solder will run through and join the 3 pieces.

If you're worried, then put in a rebar. Use a flat bar on edge. It won't show as much as a round bar. The flat bars can usually be bent to conform to gentle curves (gentle being the operative word!).

Good luck with it. It sounds like a great job for you.

Sue


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