![]() |
||||
![]() |
Over the years I've had the same problems. I was sure there was something I was or wasn't doing, but I couldn't figure out exactly what it was. I started to research the various
techniques that had been suggested. After experimenting with a combination of them, I came up with a technique that always works for me, over and over again. I want to share my discoveries with you. First of all, your stained glass project needs to be washed when you are done soldering. Washing neutralizes the flux. Not every method of washing will accomplish the neutralization process. The following directions will work. They are part of my discoveries. For the best results, please follow them exactly as they are written.
Here are the products I use to wash copper foiled projects.1. Parson's Ammonia All Purpose Cleaner that says "Sudsy" on the bottle 2. Mothers California Gold Carbnauba Wax Cleaner 3. White industrial #98 scrub pads Parsons Ammonia can be obtained at most grocery stores. If you can't find Parsons, the next best thing will be a household ammonia that says it is for general cleaning purposes (and buy "sudsy" if possible). Mothers Wax is sold at many car care centers. I get mine at NAPA. The #98 white scrub pads can be purchased at most industrial cleaning supply stores.
This will be the last time you will use water on this piece. Let me repeat. This will
be the last time you will use water on this piece! Why? Well, most water from your tap contains trace elements that react with copper patina. This alters the final color, usually resulting in any of the numerous problems mentioned above.
At this point, if you want to leave the piece silver, you are done. It will be a beautiful
shiny silver. If you want, you can apply the wax a second time, although I don't. Before I go on, I need to explain how copper patina works. There is a molecular reaction between the tin in the solder and the copper sulphate in the patina. It is an instant reaction, but it must take place on absolutely clean solder. That is why we wax first...
to remove any remaining oxidation. The wax does not affect the chemical reaction. Actually, it seems to enhance it.
There are several brands available. Novcan is the easiest to find. Jax and Classique are other good brands but more difficult to find. You should be able to purchase patina at any store that sells stained glass supplies. Another source is the internet. Be sure to buy one made for solder. There are others made for lead and zinc...which you do not want for a copper foiled project.
Step 5. Repeat step 3, applying Mothers Wax. This time, let it dry before
you polish. Use a tooth brush to clean the wax out of corners and around the solder
lines. The copper will be even, with no spots and it will shine like a new penny. If your panel needs an occasional clean-up, my recommendation is to wax it again. The wax
will clean the glass and brighten up the copper. To use black patina, clean it as described in step 1 above. Do not wax it at this point (see note below). After the piece is thoroughly dry, apply with the white scrub pad. Some people add 1 tbsp white vinegar, others add 1 tsp salt to 1 to 4 ounces of black patina to make it come out darker and shinier. Pour some patina into another container before adding the vinegar or salt, and dispose of any that is left when you are finished. Note: Since writing this, I have found that waxing the piece first does not cause a problem with black patina. It actually enhances the black. If you are having problems with patina and have a question you want answered,
click here
to ask your question. You will receive an answer within one week. Can't find what you wanted on this page? To continue your search, use the Google search box below.
Custom Search
To find everything else on this web site go to the Web Site Index
To refresh this page click here: Patina |
|||