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Clean, Patina and Polish
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Over the years I've had the same problems. I was sure there was something I was or wasn't
doing, but I couldn't figure out exactly what it was. I started to research the various
techniques that had been suggested. After experimenting with a combination of them,
I came up with a technique that always works for me, over and over again. I
want to share my discoveries with you.
First of all, your stained glass project needs to be washed when you are done soldering. Washing neutralizes the flux. Not every method of washing will accomplish the neutralization process. The following directions will work. They are part of my discoveries. For the best results, please follow them exactly as they are written.
Here are the products I use to wash copper foiled projects.1. Parson's Ammonia All Purpose Cleaner that says "Sudsy" on the bottle
2. Mothers California Gold Carbnauba Wax Cleaner
3. White industrial #98 scrub pads
Parsons Ammonia can be obtained at most grocery stores. If you can't find Parsons, the next best thing will be a household ammonia that says it is for general cleaning purposes (and buy "sudsy" if possible).
Mothers Wax is sold at many car care centers. I get mine at NAPA.
The #98 white scrub pads can be purchased at most industrial cleaning supply stores.
Step 1. Pour some Parsons Ammonia All Purpose Cleaner on your project and start scrubbing
it with the white scrub pad. Make sure you scrub it until suds appear. Go over every solder line.
Rinse well, then turn it over and do the other side. Make sure it is thoroughly
rinsed on both sides.
Step 2.
Dry the piece thoroughly with paper towels. Paper towels seem to absorb better
than a cloth towel.
This will be the last time you will use water on this piece. Let me repeat. This will
be the last time you will use water on this piece!
Why? Well, most water from your tap contains trace elements that react with the patina.
This alters the final color, usually resulting in any of the numerous problems mentioned above.
Everybody's water is different, which explains why some people have better results
than others. Also, the amount and type of trace elements in the water changes from
time to time, often giving you different results from one project to the next.
If you don't use water after the initial washing, the problems should be diminished.
Step 3.
Apply Mothers Wax to the entire piece, glass and solder lines. Then start buffing it off.
Continue buffing/polishing the piece with a cloth or paper towel until no more black comes
off.
No, I didn't make a mistake. You do wax and polish before you apply copper patina.
See the black on the paper towel? That's oxidation. If you put patina over the oxidation,
I can guarantee you will have some of those nasty problems mentioned on the forums. And before
you ask, the answer is YES, copper patina will take (beautifully I might add), right over the
polished solder lines. The procedure is different for black. It will be discussd at the
end of this tutorial
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At this point, if you want to leave the piece silver, you are done. It will be a beautiful
shiny silver. If you want, you can apply the wax a second time, although I don't.
Before I go on, I need to explain how copper patina works. There is a molecular reaction
between the tin in the solder and the copper sulphate in the patina. It is an instant
reaction, but it must take place on absolutely clean solder. That is why we wax first...
to remove any remaining oxidation. The wax does not affect the chemical reaction. Actually,
it seems to enhance it.
There are several brands available. Novcan is the easiest to find. Jax and Classique are other good brands but more difficult to find. Classique Antique Brass is my favorite. The finish is a soft brass color rather than a shiny copper.
You should be able to purchase patina at any store that sells stained glass supplies. Another source is the internet. Be sure to buy one made for solder. There are others made for lead and zinc...which you do not want for a copper foiled project.
Step 4. Apply the copper patina by pouring a small amount on your project. Scrub it on using
a piece of the white scrub pad. Make sure you use enough so that all of the solder
lines are well covered. Wipe up the excess with a paper towel. Turn the panel and repeat this step on the back side. Once you have wiped up the excess, let the piece
air dry. Prop it up so that air can get to both sides.
Step 5. Repeat step 3, applying Mothers Wax. This time, let it dry before
you polish. Use a tooth brush to clean the wax out of corners and around the solder
lines. The copper will be even, with no spots and it will shine like a new penny.
Here is the finished panel.
If your panel needs an occasional clean-up, my recommendation is to wax it again. The wax
will clean the glass and brighten up the copper.
To use black patina, clean it as described in step 1 above. Do not wax it at
this point. After the piece is thoroughly dry, apply with the white
scrub pad. Some people add 1 Tbsp white vinegar, others add 1 tsp salt to the black
to make it come out darker and shinier. Pour some patina into another container
before adding the vinegar or salt, and dispose of any that is left.
After you have applied the black patina, rinse in warm water and pat dry with a paper
towel. Let it set for 24 hours (this is a very important step), then you can wax and
polish with Mothers Wax.
If you are having problems with patina and have a question you want answered,
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